SF Bay Notes is an independent visitor journal. We are not affiliated with, endorsed by, or connected to any tour operator or the National Park Service. We do not sell tickets and never process payments.

SF Bay Notes An independent journal from the piers, ferries and islands of San Francisco Bay
San Francisco from the hills with marine fog covering the Bay

Independent visitor journal · San Francisco

SF Bay Notes

An independent journal from the piers, ferries and islands of San Francisco Bay

Opening note

A foggy morning boat to the island

I keep meaning to write this down properly. Twelve years of living here and I still set an alarm for a weekday boat as if I were a visitor who might never come back. Last March I walked to Pier 33 in a wind that made my eyes water. The city behind me was only a rumor: a few cornices, a traffic light, then fog the color of wet concrete. Gulls argued over a paper bag. Someone in a yellow jacket photographed the boarding ramp as if it were a cathedral door.

The crossing is short and never quite comfortable. You stand because sitting feels like missing it. The water is the green-gray of old glass. Spray finds the gap at your collar. I have taken this ride in July wearing a fleece I was mocked for at breakfast, and I have taken it in January when the cabin windows wept. The island arrives as a dark shoulder, then as brick, then as the dock that always smells faintly of diesel and kelp.

I walk the same uphill path every time, slower than the groups who treat it as a race. The cellhouse audio is the part I come for: former inmates and guards talking over one another across decades, the headphones a little too tight, the voice in your ear suddenly closer than the person beside you. It is history, not theater, and it is better for that. The wind on the yard is the honest part. It does not care that you dressed for a postcard.

Here is my small gripe, because a real notebook has those: the uphill walk to the cellhouse is no joke in the wind, and the gift shop on the way back has a heroic idea of what a mug should cost. I buy a coffee in the city instead. The rest of the morning stays with me — the gulls, the audio, the cold coming off the water — and that is why I keep the notes.

Looking back at the city from the stern of a weekday boat. This is the hour I keep writing about.
Looking back at the city from the stern of a weekday boat. This is the hour I keep writing about. Photograph via Wikimedia Commons · public-domain / CC collection.

A local ranking

The Bay’s islands, ranked by a local

Angel Island on a clear day — a whole different visit from the prison island, and worth its own morning.

Angel Island in the Bay with the city on the horizon
  1. 01

    The famous prison island

    The one everyone means. I go for the audio and the wind, not the myth. It is smaller than the movies promised and more interesting than the souvenir aisle.

  2. 02

    Angel Island

    A whole day if you let it be. Immigration station, bike loop, a view that makes the city look like a model. Quieter than its reputation.

  3. 03

    Alcatraz’s quieter neighbours

    Yerba Buena, Treasure, the bits of rock the ferries pass without announcing. I mention them because the Bay is not a single destination.

  4. 04

    The ones you only see from a kayak

    Red Rock on a slack tide. The unnamed bits off Marin. Not for a first visit. Just so you know they are there.

Read the island walkthrough

Pier to cellhouse and back, written the way I tell friends who ask what to actually expect.

The island walkthrough